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Titebond III and Titebond Liuid Hide Glue
http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=5179		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  peterm [ Sun Feb 19, 2006 10:09 am ]
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I came across these 2 Titebond Glues and was wondering if anyone has ever used them or any comments regarding them.
The Hide glue in Liquid ready to use form sounds real good!

Here's what they say about it:
Titebond Liquid Hide Glue is the first hide glue to be offered in a liquid, ready-to-use form. It requires no mixing, heating or stirring. Professional woodworkers use Titebond Liquid Hide for its long assembly time, exceptional strength and unique crackling effect on wood.

"Titebond Liquid Hide provides superior creep-resistance, offers excellent sandability and is unaffected by finishes. Its sensitivity to moisture allows for easy disassembly of parts, a critical benefit in antique restoration or the repair of musical instruments. "

And Titebond III:

"Stronger, safer, easier to clean up and less expensive than polyurethane glues.
Allows eight minutes of open time and has an application temperature as low as 47? F.
One hour clamp time!
Cleans up with water.
Does not foam"



peterm38767.7609027778
Author:  John Mayes [ Sun Feb 19, 2006 10:27 am ]
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I did some tests with the Liquid hide glue and it failed miserably. Glued
up cocobolo blocks and the next day I could break them apart fairly easy
where Titebond original would not budge.

Never tried the titebond III. But the titebond original is good stuff. It's all
we used (except for the superglue for those certain things) at pantheon,
and those guitars are awesome.

I have grown to prefer hot hide glue 192 gram from Milligan and higgins
over any glue thus far. I still use titebond on some large surface glue
jobs where I'm not fast enough for the hide glue, but I'm working on
getting faster so that I can use the hide glue exclusively.
Author:  Dave-SKG [ Sun Feb 19, 2006 10:30 am ]
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I have purchased the tite-iii but not had a chance to try it. everyone here has said to stay away from all of the titebonds EXCEPT the original. I like the original. So I'll probably stick with it and 192 HHG.
Author:  peterm [ Sun Feb 19, 2006 10:48 am ]
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Yup, I have never tryed it but don't want to be the "Guinea Pig" and try on one of my guitars and find out the hard way!!
I'm pretty happy with Titebond Original, so I guess I stick with it!

Thanks for the input
Author:  ggdelazzer [ Sun Feb 19, 2006 11:01 am ]
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Liquid hide glue = not good for guitarmaking , useful (but not the best) for general woodworking.
Tite 3 = not so good for guitarmaking ; strong wet resistance, useful for outdoor furniture and garden stuff.

Luigi
Author:  Brock Poling [ Sun Feb 19, 2006 11:54 am ]
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In some places Titebond II and Titebond III are fine. I use it to install the purflings on bindings that need to get bent on the pipe for fingerboards and headstocks. It helps a lot to keep them from delaminating.

The word is they creep over time, but if you use them in a low stress joint I don't see any problem with using them.

Author:  crazymanmichael [ Sun Feb 19, 2006 12:32 pm ]
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it seems that this question has been asked in one form or another ad nauseum on every guitar forum forum on the web, with just about the same results each time.

liquid hide might be ok for tacking on the nut, but i can think of little else it might be good for given its poor bond strength. someone once suggested the fb tongue might be a candidate for its use, but the way some players flex their guitars to bend all strings at once i would worry that it would release.

tb 111 might be ok for bending lams under heat, but not necessary even for that, and would make things very difficult for the poor repair person who will eventually have to deal with the problems it presents. and others who have tested it report creep problems. crazymanmichael38767.8566898148
Author:  PaulB [ Sun Feb 19, 2006 12:43 pm ]
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I've used TB III on a bathroom cabinet I built, just because it's waterproof. It dries to a brown color, not clear(ish) like original TB.

I've not thought about using it on a guitar because of the reported creep issues, so I haven't bothered doing any testing.
Author:  Josh H [ Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:15 am ]
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Like brock I have used 2 and 3 for gluing purf to binding. They hold up good under heat. I don't use them for anything else.

Josh
Author:  John [ Mon Feb 20, 2006 8:01 am ]
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Well here is something I have not read before on the various forums and posts about glue the last few years, one of the new woodworking mags suggests using liquid hide and sawdust for filling. It sands easily and would be about the same color as the surrounding wood. Also if you wanted to stain it stains well which other glues dont do.
Author:  CarltonM [ Tue Feb 21, 2006 8:59 am ]
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Titebond III was conceived (according to the manufacturer) as a less expensive and easier-to-use substitute for polyurethane. It's waterproof, heat resistant, contains no hazardous solvents, and it cleans up with water. It also bonds effectively at lower temperatures than does original Tightbond, and it has a bit longer open time, IIRC. Its waterproof/heat-resistant qualities make it questionable for general lutherie. As for the liquid hide glue, all the expert luthiers seem to agree--the additives used to make it liquid at room temperature (usually urea) weaken its bonding strength.

John...French Polishing expert Eugene Clarke says that whenever he's run across a failure in FP finishes (softening or chipping/peeling) on pre-20th century guitars, they had been filled with hide glue! It just doesn't seem to me that you could get hot hide glue spread evenly into the pores of a meaningful patch of wood before it gets too cool. Okay for furniture, not for guitars.CarltonM38769.7085300926
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